Using Leaves
and other items
to make impressions in clay
I have a lot of variety of leaves in my backyard and selected ones that were hearty and had raised veins. Naturally, thin leaves don't leave much of an impression. Likewise, if the veins were too thick, particularly the center vein, I reduced the thickness by slicing off a portion. I found that if a very deep impression is made the bowl or platter would occasionally crack along the deep impression during firing. I laid the leaves on with the veins against the clay and used a rolling pin to make the impression. Pressing with your fingers will not be effective. I put all the leaves down at once and left them in place after rolling. I cut a circle out AFTER the impressions were made. If you cut the circle out first the force of the impressions will distort the circle and you will have to re-cut it. Once I cut the circle out I removed some of the stiff leaves and placed the circle on top of my bowl mold and gently pressed the clay into shape. The bowl mold was made by pouring plaster of paris into a bowl.
The clay should remain on the bowl mold until stiff, but not dry as it will crack if left on the mold too long. When I worked outside on a hot, sunny day the clay was stiff in one hour. Indoors, at average temperature it took about 3-4 hours.
After bisque-firing the bowl I applied a dark brown glaze, then wiped it off so it remained in the impressions. Then I applied various colors of glaze using brisk, light strokes. Some colors were overlapped. Finally, I applied clear glaze and made sure the entire surface was covered.
Besides using leaves, I also found other items from nature that made wonderful patterns and textures. Shells, a seed pod and an odd little pine cone rolled along the surface added interest. Man-made items that seemed to fit in well with the nature items included lace, buttons and my own stamps made of (fired) clay.
These are beautiful! Thank you for posting your work.
ReplyDeleteThese are very pretty. I'd like to try this with my kids over the summer, but don't have a kiln to fire in. Do you think I could do the same technique with air dry clay? Working with clay is new to us so I'm not sure how air dry would work for something like this.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much.
Kerri, I have not worked with air dry clay other than a quick sample piece. I think this would work but you may not get as much detail and it certainly won't be as durable. I suggest you find a local pottery shop or summer community education program through your schools that offers ceramics classes. They will often fire your ceramic pieces for you for a nominal charge. Buying your own clay and glazes is easy. I recommend Amaco brand from DickBlick.com. But find your firing source first so you can ask them if they commonly fire LOW fire or HIGH fire clay in their kilns as that will determine what you will buy.
DeleteI see that this was posted back in May, but maybe I can answer about air dry clay. I have used it with children. I bought it in 25 pound blocks just like regular clay. This clay works nicely but cannot be fired. After the piece is dry it can be painted with acrylics, use pastel chalks, paint pens, metallic pens, etc.
DeleteOh this is so beautiful! I´m working with clay next week in school and this is such a great Idea! The kids will love it!
ReplyDeleteMy high school students are currently making these and, YES, they DO love making them! Imagine how proud they will be when these are on the Thanksgiving table for family and friends to admire.
ReplyDeleteI've been thinking about doing a project like this and I love yours. have 2 questions for you:
ReplyDelete1.how did you glaze the bowl with white negative space and colorful leaves. did you just paint the white and colors on after wiping off the excess brown?
2. Did you use underglazes before applying the clear glaze? or were they regular high-fire glazes?
Thanks, Sarah. Those are good questions so I will share the answers here in case anyone else is wondering...
Delete1.I did not need to paint on any white because the white clay was exposed after I wiped off the majority of the dark brown underglaze. Where it is white there is no glaze, other than clear.
2. I used both underglaze and regular glaze. On the set with red circles I used underglaze. I used a few different colors on each leaf. I water down the underglaze so it's rather translucent and runny so it just spreads itself rather quickly when I paint it on. If the underglaze is too thick it won't spread or mix with the other colors well and it will be so opaque it will cover my dark brown veins.
On the bluish set I used regular glazes that were thinned just a bit with some clear glaze to make them a bit more translucent. I apply the glaze in quick strokes with a flat edged brush so it just skims the surface.
Whether I used underglaze or regular glaze I completed the job with a layer of clear glaze to make sure everything was adequately covered.
Gorgeous is what comes to mind! Would love to try.I liked the fact that you make your own molds.Thanks so much for sharing.
ReplyDeleteLovely! Are these safe to eat/drink from?
ReplyDeleteThese items are food safe. I use food safe glazes on just about everything I make. They are also dishwasher and microwave safe, but I prefer to hand wash them.
ReplyDeleteVery cool! my fiance would love this!
ReplyDeleteHi i have been making some piece with impresed leaves and ferns. i love the colours on your work. i was wondering do u fire first layer of glaze before applying the clear glaze or do you just do it all in one go ? kind regards Kerry
ReplyDeleteI just do it all in one go!
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